Meet the new makeup rules

This season, take your cosmetic cues from the new makeup rules you need to live by. From being more experimental to changing the way you use your go-to products, beauty is taking a trip down a more adventurous road this spring/summer.

Rule #1 / Have fun with makeup again

You know how little girls love to rummage through their mum’s makeup kit and smear lipstick all over their face? Channel that spirit. “Makeup is easy to play with – if it doesn’t look good you just take it right off,” says Lloyd Simmonds, YSL Beauté Creative Director of Makeup. Spend time at beauty counters experimenting with new looks, or at home in front of the bathroom mirror. “Before taking off your makeup, spend five minutes trying something different,” says Jane Richardson, International Lead Makeup Stylist for Nars. “What happens if you make your brow more round, or put your blush higher? You’ll get to know your face shape, your products and how to stretch them.”

Rule #2 / Ditch the full coverage foundation

Those thick, drying formulas? Gone. The new versions are weightless, buildable and offer a long-wearing, natural looking finish, mattifying and hydrating where and when needed. “They’re for the woman who gets ready at 7am and gets home at 8pm – she now doesn’t have to worry about her foundation,” explains Simmonds. He suggests keeping the high points of the face foundation-free (it’s his trick for getting that lit-from-within glow), and only spot-applying foundation (and powder), where required.

Try: YSL Fusion Ink Foundation, Bobbi Brown Skin Foundation Cushion Compact SPF 30, Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Foundation

Rule #3 / Take a step back and give yourself a once-over

“The modern way to wear evening makeup is to leave something out,” says Richardson. “Before you finish your face, do your hair or put your clothes on; dissociate from what you’ve been doing and give yourself a minute to think and literally see yourself in a different light.” Consider your entire appearance (“We often only look at our faces in the mirror, so we only see a little part of how the world sees us.”) and ask yourself: do I need to add something, maybe a bolder lip, do I need more mascara or can I skip it entirely? Then proceed to apply the finishing touches.

Rule #4 / Put a new spin on your favourite eye enhancers

Think outside the box to enhance your eyes in a whole new way. Grab a mascara, load up the wand and really work it in to separate lashes for a 1960s vibe. Or to accentuate your features, apply mascara in an upward motion to open the eye area. If you have a high hairline and high brows, coat just the outer corners for a full-fan effect. Beyond the lashes, incorporate new trends and techniques into your eyeshadow work as well. “You can have a light smoky eye or a dark smoky eye that’s charcoal or bright blue – it’s less about the colour and more about the application and technique,” explains Richardson. The one tip she wants you to try tonight: “Ditch the eyeliner and use more shadow at the lash line to get the smoky effect.” She also suggests keeping colours to a minimum: “Forget wearing five shades all at once – it’s more modern to use one colour as a wash all over the lid or just at the lash roots,” advises Simmonds.

Try: Clarins Ombre Iridescente in Aquatic Green, Chantecaille Lasting Eye Shade Refill in Lapis, Max Factor Wild Shadow Pots in Brazen Charcoal

Rule #5 / Fall in love with lipstick all over again

Red is timeless, and orange is the It-girl favourite – but fuchsia strikes the perfect balance between classic and cool. Richardson swears any woman can become a lipstick queen in just three days: “The first day you wear bright lipstick, you will be checking yourself in windows and asking friends what they think; [on day two] you’re testing the actual product (because you were too self-conscious yesterday to pay attention to feel and longevity); and on the third day you’ll wake up and think you look pale and washed out without your bold lipstick – and that’s your ‘aha’ moment.” Richardson’s other lip tips: Practice makes perfect (and lipstick washes off), so experiment with shades and finishes. When applying lipstick, raise your chin and look down into the mirror, then slightly part your lips. “Don’t make weird shapes with your mouth – keep your lips as relaxed as possible,” advises Richardson. Bear in mind that, like brows, lips can be asymmetrical, so pay close attention to your natural shape and stay focused on the task at hand.

Try: Too Faced Melted Metal Lipstick in Metallic Bunny, Chanel Rouge Coco in Ina, L’Oreal Paris Color Riche Moisture Matte Lipstick in Glamour Fuchsia

Rule #6 / Embrace the power of makeup

All the makeup in the world will do nothing without a dose of confidence. “So many women will put on a bright lipstick and their first instinct is to wipe it off and giggle,” says Richardson. “Most of us don’t want to be seen – except for the younger generation, who love it – but there’s no point hiding because makeup is powerful and you will be noticed.” Cheers to that!

Feeling inspired to try more new makeup looks? Here are the top spring/summer makeup trends to copy now.

For more beauty tips from marie claire, visit marieclaire.com.au

Photography by Edward Urrutia