In the world of skin concerns, hyperpigmentation takes the cake as one of the most common and yet the most commonly misunderstood.

Despite the umbrella term (that gets tossed around a lot, whether accurate or not), there are actually an array of different types of hyperpigmentation and the treatment steps best suited to each may vary.

To break down the topic (in an effort to also break down the pigmentation), BEAUTYcrew spoke to Dr. Michelle Rodrigues, Dermatologist and Founder and Director of Chroma Dermatology, to figure out exactly what you need to commit to memory (and add to cart) to give your face a fighting chance.

Here’s a dermatologist’s guide to hyperpigmentation, from how to know what you’re dealing with to how to actually deal with it…

What is hyperpigmentation?

Let’s start with understanding the broader term, shall we? “Hyperpigmentation comes in many shapes and forms,” Dr. Rodrigues clarifies, explaining that “hyperpigmentation is not a diagnosis, but rather, a term that describes skin that is darker than that person’s normal skin type.” Okay, got it! Now onto our next query…

What causes hyperpigmentation?

“There are well over 45 causes of hyperpigmentation on the face alone,” Dr. Rodrigues tells BEAUTYcrew, noting that “each looks subtly different to the naked eye, is caused by different things and requires different treatment approaches."

So what are they and what causes them?! “Some of the common causes of hyperpigmentation like melasma and freckles result from exposure of the skin to ultraviolet light A, B and visible light,” Dr. Rodrigues explains. “Direct heat to the skin also plays a role for those with melasma. In those with darker skin types, commonly called “skin of colour”, hyperpigmentation can result after any inflammation in the skin. This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation is caused by preceding inflammation in the skin and is most commonly seen after things like acne, burns, trauma and other skin rashes.”

Breakouts can also play a role in triggering hyperpigmentation. “Pimples are one of the most common causes of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Rodrigues notes, adding that there are an array of other potential causes you may not have considered when it comes to your complexion. “Medications, autoimmune conditions affecting the skin and even rising blood sugar levels or insulin resistance may cause hyperpigmentation.”

How to tell which type of hyperpigmentation you’re dealing with

Long story short? Leave the deciphering to the pros. Even if you can get your head around the varying types, you might not be able to tell them apart visually. “There are over 45 causes of hyperpigmentation on the face alone, [and] whilst all of these conditions look very similar to the untrained eye, each of these requires a slightly different treatment approach,” Dr. Rodrigues explains.

In fact, what may help one type may hinder another, so don’t try treating it until you’re sure of the specific type you’re dealing with. “Some conditions, like freckles and pigmented sun spots may require laser therapies to remove them whilst other conditions such as melasma can be made irreversibly worse by laser. Some conditions causing hyperpigmentation can be the sign of a medical condition like diabetes or autoimmune disease,” she confirms.

Dr. Rodrigues advises booking in with a professional to confirm which category your hyperpigmentation falls into. “Your General Practitioner is the best first step but if a diagnosis cannot be made or treatment is not successful, a consultation with a dermatologist is the next step,” she shares. There are a few ‘don't dos’ as well: “avoid skin treatments like peels, lasers and microneedling if you have not been diagnosed by a dermatologist,” Dr. Rodrigues warns.

How to protect skin from hyperpigmentation

Once your GP/derm has assessed your face, they’ll no doubt have some specific advice for you to follow. But Dr. Rodrigues has a few general tips that could help. “Protection from ultraviolet light” is one of the most important methods of avoiding further hyperpigmentation, she explains. And that means one thing: sunscreen!

“Protection from ultraviolet light B is determined by the SPF factor of your sunscreen. Look for 50+ sunscreen that is approved by the Therapeutics Goods Administration. You can access this online,” she tells BEAUTYcrew. “High UVA protection is also important, so look for this on your sunscreen package too. Research shows that for those with darker skin types and those prone to hyperpigmentation, a sunscreen with tint in it is also important to help block visible light because it is implicated in a few conditions that cause hyperpigmentation.”

As for what not to do, Dr. Rodrigues has some helpful intel there, too. “In terms of warning against – it would be starting a treatment without a proper diagnosis. It is really important to speak to your GP or dermatologist about your hyperpigmentation to get a diagnosis first of what type of pigmentation it is, to then work through treatment options that will be best suited to you.”

How to target hyperpigmentation

“There are several ways to target hyperpigmentation and as mentioned the first place to start is a diagnosis so you can get on the correct plan for your skin,” Dr. Rodrigues reminds us. However, she does recommend “a simple routine” overall. “The key is to use gentle, fragrance-free products whilst nourishing the skin barrier and protecting it from the elements.”

Her pillars of a hyperpigmentation-targeting skin care routine? You’ll want to start with a “gentle, fragrance-free cleanser with ceramides”, used “once to twice daily”. She advises following this with an “antioxidant like niacinamide or a pigment-blocking agent”, applied “once to twice daily depending on the exact ingredient being used”. For example, “niacinamide is best used in the morning” whilst “Melasyl™ should be used morning and night.” Thought you knew all the skin care ingredients, and desperately need to know what Melasyl™ is? Fair!

“Melasyl, the new multi-patented ingredient* in La Roche Posay’s Mela B3 Serum is of course the new kid on the block with a completely new way of reducing hyperpigmentation,” Dr. Rodrigues explains. And what an impressive new kid it is! The La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum ($79.95 at La Roche-Posay) heroes the brand’s discovery of Melasyl™. With a unique mode of action, it targets dark spots before they appear on the skin. Clever, right? 18 years of research went into finding and fine-tuning this specific multi-patented ingredient (and considering it was selected from over 100,000 molecules you know it’s got to have serious skills).

As for the other types of ingredients to look for in your hyperpigmentation treatment products, “oldies but goodies are niacinamide, azelaic acid and retinoids,” Dr. Rodrigues shares. Fortunately, niacinamide (a known ally in the fight against pigmentation) is also a major player in the Mela B3 Serum formula. It works with Melasyl™ to visibly reduce hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration including sun spots, age spots, post-acne marks and stubborn dark spots. Plus, it even works to do all this while still respecting the natural tone of the rest of your skin. Phew; even skin is the goal here, remember?

As for application, La Roche-Posay Mela B3 Serum is designed to be used twice daily - simply apply two to three drops post-cleanse both morning and night, spreading the formula evenly over your skin and massaging it in.**A Of course, you’ll want to follow it with extra hydration and a generous layer of SPF in the A.M.  After all, Dr. Rodrigues told us that treatment products should be topped off with a “fragrance-free moisturiser” used “once to twice daily” and of course, “sunscreen with SPF 50+, high UVA protection and tint.”

Yes that’s right, we’ve taken in all the advice (and we hope you have too) - hyperpigmentation isn’t going to know what hit it.

*Not patented in Australia or New Zealand
**Apply 20 minutes before sun exposure. Sunscreen is only one part of sun protection so wear protective clothing and seek shade. Avoid prolonged sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours and after swimming, towelling and perspiring in accordance with directions.

Main image credit: Getty Images