A dermatologist’s guide to securing ‘syrup skin’

Mirror, mirror on the wall, who’s the glossiest gal of all?

Okay, okay, we might not be living in a fairytale world (sadly), but boy would confirmation of our complexions’ gloss factor be nice to hear! However, while we crash you back down to reality, we can tell you, the title of ‘glossiest, glassiest, syrup-iest skin’ is still up for grabs.

Yes, we just made 'syrupiest' a word. Why? Because 'syrup skin' is the freshly coined glass skin sub-category we're chasing now - it's the same glass skin aesthetic you know, love (and desperately want), just even glossier. We want your face to be so dewy it looks like it's drenched in delicious syrup (AKA skin care). Because literal syrup would definitely clog your pores, y'know?

Now, you might be reading this thinking ‘I’ve watched a thousand TikToks on the topic’. And you might've even seen the skin care-turned-makeup look taken to the runway (thanks to the viral Pat McGrath x Maison Margiela collab). Sure, that might all be totally true, because our feeds are also full of #glassskin videos (with nearly 300k posts on TikTok alone), but we’ve enlisted the help of a few experts to give us the real rundown on getting the glossiest, glassiest ‘syrup skin’ possible. But before we do, we need to send a few notes of gratitude to those that got us to this bare-faced beauty trend. 

So, before the awards show music kicks in, we’d first like to thank the rise in K-beauty products; they’re a whole new elite level of skin care and we’ll be forever grateful for their powers. We’d also like to thank the confidence we’ve all gained to go sans makeup, as opting to embrace faces free of makeup has been a total skin care game-changer. And finally, we’d like to give a shout out to the minimal hybrid makeup products that infused our makeup formulas with just a little something extra to get us going on our glossy journey. 

But this all begs the question, how do you get 'syrup skin'? And like, is it even possible without the wizardry of a filter? We spoke with the experts to find out…

What is ‘glass skin’?

Before we dive on into how you can achieve the glossy, glass-like look of 'syrup skin', first let’s take a look at what really classifies as ‘glass skin’, its parent/predecessor/more technical term. Well, Consult Dermatologist Dr Leona Yip describes the effect as “the smooth, radiant and almost translucent appearance of the skin”; basically, getting your skin to look so dewy you feel like you could see your reflection in it. And while we’re currently focusing on the external products that help you to achieve the otherworldly glow, it’s important to note the role of internal health factors (think: water consumption, sleep and a healthy diet).

 Can you give us a guide to achieving syrupy glass skin?

Before we get to know exactly what products to look out for, we’ll walk through a three-step guide to achieving glossy, glassy ‘syrup skin’. Dr Yip wants you to “focus on three essential steps in our daily skin care routine”. These steps are: 

• Hydration: “enhances skin plumpness and glow”
• Exfoliation: “boosts radiance and reduces dullness”
• Protection: “ crucial to protect your skin from harmful factors like sun exposure and pollution, which can cause skin discolouration, collagen breakdown and sun damage”

Pretty simple to follow, right? We think so! And if you’re already doing them, amazing work! But “consistency” is key to “achieving and maintaining glassy skin”. And of course, picking the right products (and ingredients) for the job, so let’s see what our 12/10 derms recommend…

What skin care ingredients are vital in the glossy look?

If the three main steps to achieving glossy, glassy 'syrup skin' are hydration, exfoliation and protection, we can kind of already guess what ingredients can come next. But in case you’re not quite as well-versed in the skin care world, let us give you our derm-backed ingredient-based shopping list.

For the sake of hydration, Dr Yip is a big fan of hyaluronic acid, as it “works like a sponge to draw water into the skin to help with skin hydration and plumpness”. But to protect your skin barrier integrity (because water can “easily evaporate”), be sure to pair your hyaluronic acid serum with a nice thick moisturiser. 

When it comes to the exfoliation step, both Dr Deshan Sebaratnam and Dr Yip agree that a blend of AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta-hydroxy acids) work best. Because those two categories are so broad, we pressed them for a few standouts “glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid” are Dr Yip’s picks. But if you’ve got sensitive skin, be sure to find a formula that boasts sensitive skin-friendly benefits.

And finally both doctors are also on the same page about the second to none antioxidant power of a vitamin C serum. Dr Yip suggests that using one in the morning helps to protect your “skin from environmental aggressors” throughout the day. PSA: that is something you definitely should be after.

And while it’s not an ‘ingredient’ to look out for as such, if you’re prone to oily skin or breakouts, Dr Yip wants you to be sure your skin care picks are all “oil-free and non-comedogenic”.

Skin care products to give you glossy skin

If you’ve been scrolling the K-beauty TikTok pages, you know that the 10-step skin care routine is everything over there. And while we’re kind of too lazy to implement all ten steps (we’re busy, okay?) we do think these products are going to help you achieve the glassiest, glossiest, syrupiest (there it is again) skin of all.

Cleanse (& cleanse again)

The double cleanse is probably the most powerful tool in any beauty lover's arsenal, because realistically that’s what it all comes down to. Ensuring your skin is the squeakiest clean it can be. K-beauty users know what’s up, too. Starting with an oil cleanser – like the ANUA Heartleaf Pore Control Cleansing Oil ($27.24 at Beauty Amora) – focus in on cleansing any areas of sebaceous filament and these cleansers should help you start to see a major pre de-clogging difference. 

And then because we want to make sure there’s no residual excess oils, go in for a second gentler, water-based cleanse. Skinstitut Gentle Cleanser ($52 at Adore Beauty) ticks all our boxes. 

Hard-hitting hydration

Understandably, when it comes to giving our skin a glossy glowing look, we’re going to need hydration. And a lot of it. So, when it comes to applying our hydrating ingredients we’re going in twofold. Because hyaluronic acid draws and bonds to moisture levels, we’re going to first apply the SkinCeuticals Hyaluronic Acid Intensifier ($169 at Adore Beauty), an incredibly rich, hydrating serum. Next we’re going to layer a luxuriously thick layer of the rich, occlusive CeraVe Advanced Repair Balm ($17.99 at Chemist Warehouse) to lock in all the hard-hitting levels of hydration. That's how you're going to secure the coveted 'wet look' of ''syrup skin'. Heavenly!

Slough away dead skin

Skin cell turnover is key in achieving glossy skin, so picking a gentle (yet hard-working) chemical exfoliant is a must. Both Sebaratnam and Yip told us to look for AHA and BHA-rich products. Our top picks? The Paula’s Choice 6% Mandelic Acid + 2% Lactic Acid Liquid Exfoliant ($20 at Paula’s Choice), a must for a night time buff away. And then because it wouldn’t be a K-beauty story without a multi-purpose toner, we suggest the powerful COSRX AHA/BHA Clarifying Treatment Toner ($18.43 at Amazon Australia).

The power of a mask

So we seriously couldn’t go past the power of a face mask. Why? Because these two hydrating overnight masks have absolutely taken over our socials. The viral Medicube Collagen Night Wrapping Mask ($59.35 at YesStyle) essentially shrink wraps to your face, leaving you to peel it away revealing unbelievably glossy skin. And the Biodance Bio-Collagen Real Deep Mask ($19.98 at Amazon Australia) is possibly the coolest sheet mask we’ve ever seen. Unlike all other sheet masks, you apply these one to leave on overnight (while it works its magic). Throughout the ultra-hydrating process, the mask turns completely clear and infuses your face with a dewy finish we could only dream of (until now).

Brighten up your morning

Think of things that are bound to brighten up your mornings: a ray of sunshine, a cuddle with a pet and of course, your vitamin C serums. Because nothing says ‘hello glowing skin’ quite like vitamin C, and we’ll be throwing it back to the gentle Korean fave INNISFREE Vitamin C Brightening Serum ($55 at Adore Beauty) to do all the heavy lifting.

Sun protection

The most important skin care step, no matter what your skin goals are, is sun protection. You’ll want to ensure you’re not only applying (and diligently reapplying) your sunscreen of choice, but also staying out of peak UV exposure times and always wearing protective clothing. Basically, it’s the memo South Koreans seem to have absolutely down pat. And TBH we’re betting on it being why their skin is so naturally unreal. Speaking of, the BEAUTY OF JOSEON - Relief Sun : Rice + Probiotic SPF50+ ($26.99 at Beauty Amora) is a great SPF to have on your skin’s side.

What creates natural glow in skin below the surface?

Alright, as much as we’re loving breaking down this skin-boosting trend (and all the unbelievably glossy products), we’re left wondering, is there anything lying below our skin's surface that could naturally give us that glossy glow? 

Dr Yip explained it as “several factors working together under the skin”. It’s giving ‘magic school bus ecosystem we can’t see’. The three main factors that our skin needs for a natural dewy glow are: “1. Hydration and a healthy skin barrier, 2. Quality skin collagen and elastin, and 3. Skin cell renewal.” So let’s dive a little deeper and break down these points (so we don’t end up breaking our bank shopping for skin care). 

A healthy, hydrated skin barrier

It probably goes without saying, but when you’ve got a healthy, hydrated skin barrier, your skin is going to look, well, healthy (duh). For Dr Yip, when your skin is hydrated it will naturally “reflect light more evenly, creating a glossy luminous effect”. Oh and bonus, it helps with point two... 

Quality of skin collagen and elastin

Hydrated skin helps to “maintain skin elasticity and smoothness”, which in turn helps to create that “firm and smooth skin surface” that’s needed to make your skin look literally flawless. 

Skin cell renewal

Okay this step is kind of natural and kind of not. Yes our skin sheds, but “regular exfoliation (helps to) remove dead skin cells”, which then in turn “promotes cell turnover and improves skin texture to reveal fresh, new skin”, as Dr Yip explains. All sounding pretty good right? Yep! The process is what works to “enhance skin radiance and smoothness” and gives your skin that “glow” when the light hits it.

Can anyone try the ‘glass skin’ or 'syrup skin' trends?

We can all take a big sigh of relief, because Dr Yip is giving this trend a big “tick from (her) as a dermatologist”. But even though this glassy skin trend “encourages ‘skin minimalism’” which gets a big confidence-boosting yes from us (and Dr Yip), it doesn’t mean that absolutely everyone should give it a go. 

Because the list of ingredients this trend utilises are mainly skin-resurfacing AHAs, people with “sensitive or problematic skin need to be cautious” of the known skin irritants. But caution doesn’t mean don’t try it, just, you know, be cautious. Dr Yip also suggests that “tweens and teens do not need to get started with the glassy skin routine this young”. Sorry guys! She does suggest keeping “practising good sun protection and using a regular skin moisturiser” as surefire ways to ensure nourished adolescent skin. 

As for causing congestion, both Dr Sebaratnam and Dr Yip agree that the skin care ingredients aren’t likely to cause congestion as they’re non-comedogenic. Although, both do note that because you would be introducing active ingredients into your routine you may experience some level of breakout or irritation, which is totally normal. But if you find the symptoms persisting, seek medical attention. And hey, just for the sake of being crystal clear: real syrup isn't the secret (it's a friend to pancakes sure, but definitely not to pores), we're only craving skin care 'syrup' here. And now you know exactly how to master the art of applying it...

Image credits: @sooyaaa__/BEAUTYcrew

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