6 makeup tricks to camouflage wrinkles, rather than highlight them

Most of the time, makeup is our friend, making us look more glowy, bronzed and bright-eyed. But sometimes, it can do more harm than good if you don’t use the right formulas and don’t apply it correctly. The wrong concealer around the eyes can highlight (rather than hide) wrinkles. A cakey foundation will settle into your creases. And some lipsticks feather into all those fine lines around your lips and put them front and centre. No, thank you.

To avoid your makeup ageing you, follow these handy tips for camouflaging your wrinkles, rather than accidentally highlighting them. 

1/ Smooth out your canvas with a primer

A primer helps blur lines by filling them in. It will also help your foundation sit smoothly on your skin and stay put without creasing through the day. A silicone formula with hydrating benefits is a top choice. We like Make Up For Ever Hydra Booster Step 1 Face Primer ($62 from Sephora) for masking the signs of ageing.

2/ Use a sheer concealer

Seems kind of counterintuitive to hide wrinkles with a light-coverage concealer like Revlon Illuminance Serum Concealer ($29.95 from Priceline), but unfortunately, full-coverage formulas have a tendency to go cakey and settle into your fine lines. "Concealers with heavy and matte textures generally make the skin look much older," warns makeup artist Alphie Sadsad. "Sheer and moisturising textures work best when camouflaging wrinkles," he says. 

If a sheer coverage just isn’t cutting it, Sadsad recommends pressing a corrector like Charlotte Tilbury Magic Vanish Colour Corrector ($51 from Charlotte Tilbury) into areas where you see discolouration, before applying your concealer. "Peach works best to defuse darkness under the eyes. Use the warmth of your fingers to blend and melt into the skin."

3/ Keep your base looking dewy

"The best finish for anyone that is concerned with wrinkles is a creamy, dewy skin," says Sadsad. Matte finishes can look dull on the skin and draw attention to a wrinkled surface. It’s also important to make sure your skin is well hydrated before you layer foundation over the top. Especially around the eye area. Moisture helps plump skin and reduce the appearance of lines and wrinkles. It also ensures your foundation applies more evenly.

"Firstly, prepare your canvas with skin care that is right for your skin type, keeping in mind you want your skin to have a glow even before foundation," Sadsad explains.

Apply your foundation with a wet BeautyBlender ($34 from Sephora) for a flawless, never-caked-on finish. Foundation that’s been laid on thick will settle into your lines and make them look more prominent.

Pat McGrath Labs Skin Fetish Sublime Perfection Foundation ($120 from Sephora) works well for light coverage and Charlotte Tilbury Beautiful Skin Hydrating Foundation ($70 from Charlotte Tilbury) for medium coverage. 

“And if you are worried about looking too wet, place powder in key areas.”

4/ Go easy on the face powder

Speaking of face powder, you need to tread carefully here. Too much powder applied at once will leave skin looking dull and creased. Sadsad says *how* you apply powder is a real game-changer. "Never bake, press it in with a sponge, or use a powder puff."

"The best way to use powder when you don’t want to highlight fine lines is to reach for a small ponytail shape brush and lightly roll where you need to set. Make sure you tap the excess off the brush, too." Try Sephora Collection Pro Crease Brush #26 ($40 from Sephora).

If you're worried about looking too shiny, Sadsad says to apply powder just around the eyes and on the centre of the forehead instead of all over your face. "It'll keep your makeup from creasing in key areas without sacrificing a healthy glow."

5/ Steer clear of glitter eye makeup

"Using shimmering beige, champagne or golds on the inner corners of the eyes wakes them up by bringing light to the area. However, avoid using shimmer, glitter or metallic eyeshadows all over," warns Sadsad. If any of those specks of glitter find their way into your wrinkles (and somehow they always do), all they’re going to do is draw attention to these areas you’re trying so hard to hide. "Mattes and cream shadows work best," says Sadsad. We like Trinny London Eye2Eye ($34 from Trinny London).

6/ Prep your lips before you apply a lip colour

"Moisturising, more moisturising and exfoliating." Those are Sadsad’s top tips when it comes to preventing your lipstick from highlighting all those teeny tiny wrinkles around your mouth. "Use a sugar lip scrub and exfoliate in a circular motion, working around and outside the lip," suggests Sadsad. "Using an exfoliator twice a week will make your mouth softer and encourage new cell growth."

Before applying lipstick, define the edge of your lips (and create a barrier to prevent feathering) with a lip liner that has a clear finish, like Dior Rouge Contour Universal Clear Lip Liner ($51 from Sephora). Finding a long-lasting, budge-proof lip colour is also essential. We reviewed all our favourites over here.

Great makeup begins with a great skin care routine. Here are 5 serums that'll support your skin through the ageing process.

Main image credit: @gucciwestman